Set menus at either £13 or £14 may include exemplary beef Wellington, Stilton-stuffed poussin, tender (but untenderised) pork fillet in sherry, baked Avon grilse, preceded by starters of, say, wild mushrooms, sauced and garlicked, flawless lasagne, or robust home-made soups, and followed by a gut-busting trolleyful of artericidal cream confections, of which Mrs Adcock will invariably force you to take two, leaving you to stagger into the owlful night on a self-promise of a week’s fat-farming, which you will of course break.